Bespoke suits – what is sartorial gold standard?

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What does “bespoke suits” mean?

People often make a mistake with the meaning of “bespoke”. The original word doesn’t mean that one good is luxury or premium, although many stores and boutiques use it for this purpose. The term “bespoke” means that something is special because it is made only for you and for no one else. Bespoke suits are suits sewn exactly for your proportions and taste. There is a chance never to reach for a garment “off the rack”, once you try bespoke suits.

Where does the idea for bespoke suits come from?

In the Western world, suits are mandatory if you want to look formal. The difference is that in the past almost every man wore a bespoke suit. If he couldn’t afford it, then he wore castoffs – bespoke suit, made for someone else.

Tailoring has a long history. It was long ago when entrepreneur Robert Baker had opened the first tailoring in the Piccadilly area. He was the first who define the area as the centre of London’s menswear merchandising. The year was 1500.

Until the founding of the manufacturing technology, bespoke suits were the norm. Right after, Montague Burton started production of “off the peg” men’s apparel, which cost less. Years during World War II, he supplied the soldiers with attire. Serial production is always cheaper than custom goods. That’s why the tailoring world had lived through a big change. The norm was ready-to-wear clothes while bespoke suits were left for bankers and lawyers. However, it takes a few decades before people realized that bespoke suits might be for everyone.

graziaa bespoke suits

What’s the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke?

Of course, both terms are used occasionally by store owners to define the value of the products, but in fact, made-to-measure and bespoke mean different things. A tailor will take your measurements for both types of apparel, that’s why fitting is not how you will distinguish them. The main difference – bespoke suits should have at least one part of them hand-made. However, today, in the modern world, you might find made-to-measure suits with hand-made elements and machine-made bespoke suits so the limits are blurred.

Today, if you pay for the bespoke suit, you should be able to choose everything – from the buttons to the cutting of the design and materials. If you pay for the made-to-measure suit, then you will be able to require slight changes but you suit still be a part of the existing block.

The last option is personally tailored suit. It is almost a suit “off the rack” with fitting. As you may see, different categories exist just to satisfy one simple wish – “A suit that fits”.

Why should you buy a bespoke suit?

When it comes to bespoke suits will read things like luxury, prestige and etc. The truth is that there are two reasons only to spend money on a bespoke suit. The first one is the necessity to wear a suit that fits and the second one – the desire for the best quality.

A big part of men looks good in “off the peg” suits, in order to look amazing, your suit should be made exactly for your posture and body. It is impossible an average suit to look stylish and unique, it just looks average.

Another thing, people should have in mind, is that although the price of bespoke suits is a higher one, it is reasonable because the quality is also a higher one. These clothes are made to be worn for a long time. There are few people who are involved in the tailoring one bespoke suit – a trouser maker, a cutter, finisher, tailor and presser. All of them are specialists who have enough expertise that’s why the price of the suit is higher. They know how to made canvas inter-lining to follow the curves of the body. They know how to make the whole suit suitable for you even if you gain some weight in next years.

Bespoke suit blue colour

The process

Making a bespoke suit is a whole process, which includes communication. The tailor will want to see a client’s posture, sitting position and even walking. That’s how you might understand if your tailor is an expert. He will ask you question about your lifestyle because the tailor should know where you are planning to wear your suit. Based on your measurements, posture and answers he will recommend your style, cut, fabrics and etc.

Tailors don’t impose their opinion they just give you different options. All of the choices will be in the client’s hands – fabrics, buttons, pockets etc.

On the first fitting, the client will try a basic form. The tailor will apply all adjustments and then second fitting follows. Usually, there are third and even fourth fitting so the process is a long one. Bespoke suits take time so people should expect the process to continues up to 4, 5 months.

Where To Buy A Bespoke Suit: Singapore

Graziaa make 100% hand-stitched by the classic rules of European techniques, their bespoke suits are not made by template or made-to-measure. Tailors in Graziaa have 30-years experience, partly acquired in UK and Italy.

Guidelines for buying your first Bespoke Suit

Before choosing a tailor and a suit you have to do some things:

  • Try to define what you want. You are not a tailor so you couldn’t explain everything in details but you should know your general preferences. Have in mind, that every tailor has its own style of tailoring, so checking his or her previous designs will give you a hunch if he/she suits you. (pun intended);
  • When you visit the store, ask about the cutter and check if they don’t send suits abroad to be cut;
  • Your tailor will give you different pieces of advice. Listen to him/her;
  • Enjoy the experience.

Things you shouldn’t do:

  • Don’t be too brave with colours and style. Your first bespoke suits should be more practical than extravagant;
  • Making the right impression is important so don’t try to impress your tailor. Dress, like its a normal day and leave the rest to your tailor.